BSB

Ok...Maybe Brunei is as boring as everyone told us. We caught a cab at the airport and he drove us to our hotel just outside of town (about 5km) for B$20 (expensive!). The capital was DEAD. We were one of the only cars on the road and there was no sign of human life.

We arrived at our hotel Apek Utama a hair after 9pm and it was completely dark. We had to wake up the desk assistant to check us in. He greeted us belly first. He wore a sarong and a tank top with said tank top pulled up above his generous stomach. This hotel/guesthouse was recommended by Lonely Planet and only cost B$38 for a double room with a private bath and air conditioning.

We arrived hungry and Big Belly told us we could grab some food at the bodega down the street, but we needed to hurry because it was about to close. We ran upstairs to our room (which could use a serious facelift, but it was clean). I killed a cockroach, used the bathroom, and we headed out to the store.

Mr. Happy bought some papaya and fixin's for cheese sandwiches. I insisted on Oreos and Chips Ahoy to calm my nerves. We prepared the food back in our room, but my surroundings sort of made me lose my appetite. I managed a few Oreos.

There was a puzzling sign on the ceiling above our bed. I'm not sure what it meant. I'm guessing it means 'Surrender Now'.

In the morning we decided to change hotels. We coughed up a few more bucks to stay at the substantially nicer Terrace Hotel. This cost about B$60. It even had a pool! Big Belly asked us where we were going when we left. We felt very bad abandoning his hotel, because he was quite nice and jolly. Mr. Happy told him we were going to stay with a friend. I'm not sure if he believed us (quite unlikely we had a friend network in BSB) but I think the fib made us all feel better.

Time to sightsee!
Mr. Happy left for his meetings and I took to the streets of Brunei's capital. They were pretty much empty. After living in traffic riddled places the past few years, it was nice to walk down the middle of the street and not fear for my life.

I visited a picturesque wet market positioned next to the river. This was the quietest market I've ever been to in my life. No one was speaking at all.

I then took the No. 39 bus (B$1) to the Brunei Museum. The Petro-Chemical wing was closed for renovation -where's my egg timer luck when I need it? - but there was plenty to see. I was the ONLY person in the museum other than staff. After my visit, I sat on the museum porch waiting for my return bus. They run every 30 minute and the idea is to spot the bus on the road and wave it down. It was quite warm with a gentle breeze, and it took everything in my power not to doze off and miss the bus. I waited more than 30 minutes, so for all I know, I did doze off and miss the bus.

Back in the city centre I stopped for lunch at a cute bakery and had their meal of the day - Thursday: Nasi Chicken Rendang B$5. I washed it down with a root beer B$1. Attn Asia: Please start carrying diet soda!!
I wanted to take a boat ride around the town and checkout the floating village. Locals pay B$10 for this but they'll try to charge B$20 from you. Negotiate! The boat men are all over and motion to you by moving their finger in a circle. I decided I would wait for Mr. Happy to take this tour.

I visited the tourist office next to the Brunei Hotel (it has moved from its previous location inside the post office). There I met Jungle Dave who convinced me to book an overnight camping trip in the jungle. I hope Mr. Happy will be up for it! He won't be missing much by not touring the city.

I had a wander on the way back to my hotel. I passed many pretty, large, empty places.